W’s China Bistro: A New Star in the South Bay
By M.L. Grill

Consider yourself most fortunate if you’ve already discovered W’s China Bistro.

Open for just three months, this new kid on the block in South Redondo Beach is a stellar player in the culinary scene. Chef Robert Chong takes ordinary Chinese classics and mkes them all his own. Potstickers ($5.25) takes on divine dimensions; Mongolian beef ($12.95) becomes more than you ever imagined.

W’s features a broad array of fabulous desserts, the brilliant work of a new young pastry chef. Chocolate Flourless Cake, Crème Brulee, Cheesecakes, tarts, and much more give diners a decadent way to complete a meal. W’s also takes great pride in its amazing selection of made-on-the premises sorbets and ice creams. These are sublime.

The most discernable aspect of Chef Robert’s fare is its ability to bring together ingredients in a manner that perfectly punctuates the main feature of the dish. Nothing ever overpowers a selection, and sauces, though sometimes appropriately bold and vibrant, add their own fascination.

Take the potstickers for instance. The soy-vinaigrette laden with scallions is pure delight and enhances the Potstickers, which are perfection minus any sauce. Crispy on one side and soft on the other, these savory gems are steamed and pan-fried, and boast ground pork, Chinese greens, ginger, and scallions. Venture beyond tradition and W’s offers incredible “Dim Sum Starters” including Steamed Chicken Raviolis, Crab Stuffed Shrimp Cigars, and Singapore Skewers. Certainly, W’s Starters menu offers a host of spectacular ways to open any meal, including Crunchy Lettuce Cups, Garden Vegetable Spring Rolls, and Rice Rolls, served cold. And if the starters aren’t enough to produce excited comments about the food, W’s Chinese Chicken salad certainly will. Talk about a glorious, flavorful salad! The “Our” in its title is no mistake for this incredible delight is all W’s. Grilled Chicken breast slivers are mixed with fancy baby lettuce, nappa leaves, scallions, almonds, wonton threads and rice sticks in W’s soy vinaigrette for a righteous experience.

Our server, Tammy, was one of the best we’ve come across; her courteous professionalism, efficiente service, and genuine warmth added to the pleasure of our evening. She knew all about every thing on the menu and reminded us what each dish contained as it arrived at our table. She was also only too glad to restate what she’d just said when my pen didn’t keep up with her remarks.

We were treated to Catch of the Day in Banana Leaf, Chicken with Black Bean Sauce, Peppery Beef, Wok Sea Scallops, and Steamed Salmon with Soy Lemon Sauce. Each dish panache was evident and each dish was art to behold and a revelation to taste. The chicken with Black Bean Sauce featured tender chicken bites sautéed with Roma tomatoes, asparagus, and scallions. Once again, the top quality and freshness of the ingredients was apparent. I especially enjoyed the tomatoes and asparagus, as they were masterful ingredients that held their own yet added to the dish’ overall success. And the black bean sauce was barely evident, though it was there adding its sublime touch to the dish.

The Catch of the Day was Lake Superior White Fish, which was then roasted with Asian spices and a vegetable medley in a banana leaf. Here again, the result was divine, a succulent piece of White Fish with the added benefits of fresh vegetable and a banana leaf, which imparts a subtle flavor that is evident to discerning palates. And the Peppery Beef was amazing, punctuated by plum wine and prepared with freshly ground black pepper, cilantro, onions, and a trio of bell peppers. As with all his cuisine, Chef Robert has finesses this dish to perfection and it is an absolute pleasure. And borrowing from his mother’s recipe, Chef Robert presents Steamed Salmon with Soy Lemon Sauce and adds black shiitake mushrooms and asparagus. And once again, creates a dish that is utterly remarkable. Perhaps what best demonstrates the top quality of W’s ingredients is the Wok Sea Scallops dish. Tender ample-sized scallops are so unadulterated and fresh that you can actually tste the slightly sweet aspect of a sea scallop. Indeed, scallop fans must order this dish! And though the cuisine definitely takes center stage, the décor is elegant and refined and yet casual enough for shorts and kids. Beautiful woods, marble, slate, woodworks, arty light fixtures, and expansive windows combine for one of the best restaurant interiors in the South Bay.

W’s China Bistro is owned and operated by three brothers: Fernando, Roberto, Marcelino, and is the latest addition to the family’s dining establishments. Chef Robert spends his time at W’s and China Grill in Manhattan Beach, and is ably assisted by a chef and sous chef, each of whom has perfected his preparations. Fernando is out front and visible at either restaurant, as well, and is an excellent host.

Other restaurants in their hands include Chong’s Chinese Café, 2516 Pacific Coast Hwy., Hermosa Beach, 310-376-3859 (more of a fast-food place for a quick bite in or to go); Chong’s Chinese Cuisine, 18415 S. Avalon Blvd, Carson, 310-327-4866, and Chong’s Drive Thru, 15722 Crenshaw Blvd., Gardena, 310-327-8818.

Until now, China Grill was the place where Chef Robert served his spectacular fare. Now, W’s China Bistro has bee added and Chef Robert turned loose for more delicious creations. He says the menu at W’s is 60% the same as the one at China Grill, with 40% new creations that make W’s its own unique dining establishment.

We ended our evening with banana walnut ice cream, green tea ice cream, guanabana sorbet, and Chocolate Flourless Cake. Each was a revelation---the sorbet light and refreshing, the cake tremendously pleasing, the ice creams full of flavor.

W’s China Bistro, 1410 Pacific Coast Hwy. (near the Avenues and Riviera Village), Redondo Beach, is open daily for lunch and dinner, and features free parking behind the restaurant and entrances from the rear and street. Lunch specials are served daily until 3 pm and include Lemon Chicken, Sauteed Beef with Broccoli and many others. Specials are served with steamed jasmine or brown rice, spring rolls, and a choice of Chinese salad or hot and sour soup. Most dinner entrees are served with a choice of rice, as well. To reach the magnificent new culinary star, call 310-792-1600.

W’s does not use MSG and can accommodate private parties, as well prepared and deliver food for large groups.

M.L.Grill is a member of the California Restaurant Writers Association.
The above review appeared in the June 3, 2003 RAVE! Magazine.

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